Art of Crochet Blog

Well, Laura Killoran, of www.croshaydesign.com, and I have finally done it…! After talking about it for years, we’ve decided to collaborate. I couldn’t be happier, and I’m certain that everyone who loves to crochet will have more and more to excited about. Now that we are helping each other out, we’ll have more patterns, tutorials and online classes than ever before.

To celebrate, we have a special deal for our crocheting friends: Buy 2 patterns from www.croshaydesign.com and get Josi Hannon Madera’s “Bonny Girl Cloche & Scarf” pattern set for FREE!!

Use coupon code: ArtOfCroshay

*This offer good through November 30, 2007. Only available at www.croshaydesign.com.
As well, we are offering, for a VERY LIMITED TIME, every hat pattern available on both Laura’s and Josi’s websites. All together, that’s 13 hat patterns, plus a bonus scarf pattern, a $62 value - for the unbelievably low price of $30. A book’s worth of patterns, links to video stitch guides, bonus sections of tips & techniques, lots of photos - all from two of crochet’s best designers.

Use coupon code: iwantitALL

*This offer good through November 30, 2007. Only available at www.croshaydesign.com.

The patterns by Laura Killoran, available at Croshay Design, are TOP-notch.

You know you want one!
Go ahead - ask me why… ask me, “Josi, what makes Laura’s patterns so special? Why are Croshay Design hat patterns better than everyone else’s?”

My response: Every detail has been thought-out. For instance - the seams on these hats are the best around. Laura carefully changes the instructions round-to-round to ensure the most “seamless seam” possible. That, alone, is the difference between a great-looking hat, and one that looks handmade-in-the-bad-way.

But that’s not all. Croshay Design patterns make the absolute most of the recommended materials. I’ve been very vocal about my dislike for acrylics yarns. Laura’s designs give me a new appreciation for the fiber. She makes the most of it’s texture - creating hats with just enough structure to be fashionable, yet still be comfortably wearable and absolutely washable.

For this collaboration, I did the photography, layout and editing. Check out her spiffy new website, too - I custom-coded a shopping cart and automatic download system.

C’mon, I know you want a super-scrumptious handmade hat by Josi, dontcha? You’d be helping a girl out, too!**

	Brussels Toque style, with simple diamond-and-puff trim Solid color$30 100% wool $35 wool/silk
	Berliner Rounded beanie with criss-cross hatch detail 2 colors$30 100% wool $35 wool/silk
	Vienna Rounded striped beanie with brim detail 2 colors$30 100% wool $35 wool/silk
	Glasgow Skullcap with brim detail 2 colors$30 100% wool $35 wool/silk
100% Wool Colors	Wool/Silk Colors

Prices include shipping. To order, click one of the buttons below, and make certain to include the following in the note section of your order (if you forget, I’ll email you):
1. Style Name (Brussels, Berliner, Vienna, Glasgow)
2. Color(s)
3. Size: Toddler, Child (age 8 or younger), Small/Medium Adult, Large Adult

100% Wool Hat - $30

Wool/Silk Hat - $35

My Flickr Beanie Set has bigger pics and detail shots. ** Bob got canned 2 months ago, for the second time this year. I started a part-time job, and he starts a temp job next week. Between regular bills, and health care - we’re busted. So not only would you get a fabulous handmade hat - you’d be helping us get back on our feet. Much thanks.

This week, I’d like to introduce the Tunisian Twisted Stitch. After researching this stitch, I discovered something troubling - it was worked in 2 different ways yet always named the same. I’ve decided to differentiate between the two versions by calling them the Tunisian Twist Under and Tunisian Twist Over stitches. You will have the best luck understanding these video guides if you are stitching along with them:

Tunisian Twist Under (Ttw-un): (right-handed) (left-handed)

Tunisian Twist Over (Ttw-ov): (right-handed) (left-handed)

Cobblestone

Cobblestone Pattern:

• Base - using 5.50 mm standard hook and DK weight yarn, ch 38. Switch to 6.00 mm Tunisian hook.
• Foundation - lp on hook counts as first st (now and throughout), 1 Tss into each of the next 36 chs, end-st into last ch, return.
• Row 1 - { 1 Tss into next st, ( 1 Tps into next st, 1 Ttw-un into next st ) x 3, 1 Tps into next st, 1 Tss into next st } x 4, end-st into last st, return.
• Row 2 - { 1 Tss into next st, ( 1 Ttw-un into next st, 1 Tps into next st ) x 3, 1 Ttw-un into next st, 1 Tss into next st } x 4, end-st into last st, return.
• Rows 3 to 32 - repeat Rows 1 & 2.

If you want to use this as an all-over pattern for a blanket, simply add repeats of the instructions between the { }. This stitch pattern is 9 stiches wide and 2 rows tall. Your starting chain for a larger piece should be a multiple of 9, plus 2.

* * * * *

Flying Ridge

• Base - using 5.50 mm standard hook and DK weight yarn, ch 38. Switch to 6.00 mm Tunisian hook.
• Foundation - lp on hook counts as first st (now and throughout), 1 Tss into each of the next 36 chs, end-st into last ch, return.
• Row 1 - { 1 Tss into next st, 1 Tps into next st, 1 Ttw-un into next st } x 12, end-st into last st, return.
• Row 2 - { 1 Ttw-un into next st, 1 Tss into next st, 1 Tps into next st } x 12, end-st into last st, return.
• Row 3 - { 1 Tps into next st, 1 Ttw-un into next st, 1 Tss into next st } x 12, end-st into last st, return.
• Rows 4 to 32 - repeat Rows 1 to 3.

If you want to use this as an all-over pattern for a blanket, simply add repeats of the instructions between the { }. This stitch pattern is 3 stiches wide and 3 rows tall. Your starting chain for a larger piece should be a multiple of 3, plus 2.

Zoom

Zoom Pattern:

• (A) Base - using 5.50 mm standard hook and DK weight yarn (color A), ch 38. Switch to 6.00 mm Tunisian hook.
• (A) Foundation - lp on hook counts as first st (now and throughout), 1 Tss into each of the next 36 chs, end-st into last ch, return, change to color B in the last return stitch.
• (B) Row 1 - 1 Tss into each of the next 36 sts, end-st into last st, return, change to color A in the last return stitch.
• (A) Row 2 - * fp-Td, 1 Tss into each of the next 8 sts, fp-Td *, 1 Tss into each of the next 16 sts, repeat between * *, end-st into last ch, return, change to color B in the last return stitch.
• (B) Row 3 - * 1 Tss into next st, fp-Td, 1 Tss into each of the next 6 sts, fp-Td, 1 Tss into next st *, 1 Tss into each of the next 16 sts, repeat between * *, end-st into last ch, return, change to color A in the last return stitch.
• (A) Row 4 - { * fp-Td, 1 Tss into next st, fp-Td *, 1 Tss into each of the next 4 sts, repeat between * * }, 1 Tss into each of the next 16 sts, repeat between { }, end-st into last ch, return, change to color B in the last return stitch.
• (B) Row 5 - { * 1 Tss into next st, fp-Td *, repeat between * *, 1 Tss into each of the next 2 sts, repeat between * * twice }, 1 Tss into each of the next 16 sts, repeat between { }, end-st into last ch, return, change to color A in the last return stitch.
• (A) Row 6 - repeat Row 4.
• (B) Row 7 - repeat Row 3.
• (A) Row 8 - repeat Row 2.
• (B) Row 9 - 1 Tss into each of the next 36 sts, end-st into last st, return, change to color A in the last return stitch.
• (A) Row 10 - (1 Tss into next st, fp-Td) x 5, 1 Tss into each of the next 16 sts, (fp-Td, 1 Tss into next st) x 5, end-st into last st, return, change to color B in the last return stitch.
• (B) Row 11 - (fp-Td, 1 Tss into next st) x 6, 1 Tss into each of the next 13 sts, (fp-Td, 1 Tss into next st) x 5, fp-td, end-st into last st, return, change to color A in the last return stitch.
• (A) Row 12 - (1 Tss into next st, fp-Td) x 6, 1 Tss into each of the next 12 sts, (fp-Td, 1 Tss into next st) x 6, end-st into last st, return, change to color B in the last return stitch.
• (B) Row 13 - (fp-Td, 1 Tss into next st) x 7, 1 Tss into each of the next 9 sts, (fp-Td, 1 Tss into next st) x 6, fp-td, end-st into last st, return, change to color A in the last return stitch.
• (A) Row 14 - (1 Tss into next st, fp-Td) x 7, 1 Tss into each of the next 8 sts, (fp-Td, 1 Tss into next st) x 7, end-st into last st, return, change to color B in the last return stitch.
• (B) Row 15 - (fp-Td, 1 Tss into next st) x 8, 1 Tss into each of the next 5 sts, (fp-Td, 1 Tss into next st) x 7, fp-td, end-st into last st, return, change to color A in the last return stitch.
• (A) Row 16 - (1 Tss into next st, fp-Td) x 8, fp-Td in front of each of the next 4 sts, (fp-Td, 1 Tss into next st) x 8, end-st into last st, return, change to color B in the last return stitch.
• (B) Row 17 - repeat Row 15.
• (A) Row 18 - repeat Row 14.
• (B) Row 19 - repeat Row 13.
• (A) Row 20 - repeat Row 12.
• (B) Row 21 - repeat Row 11.
• (A) Row 22 - repeat Row 10.
• Rows 23 to 30 - repeat Rows 1 to 8.

This square makes a deliciously eye-bending all-over design:

If you want to use this as an all-over pattern for a blanket, simply repeat the instructions for each row. This stitch pattern is 36 stiches wide and 30 rows tall. Your starting chain for a larger piece should be a multiple of 36, plus 2.

Jagged Zig-Zig

Jagged Zig-Zig Pattern:

• (A) Base - using 5.50 mm standard hook and DK weight yarn (color A), ch 38. Switch to 6.00 mm Tunisian hook.
• (A) Foundation - lp on hook counts as first st (now and throughout), 1 Tss into each of the next 36 chs, end-st into last ch, return, change to color B in the last return stitch.
• (B) Row 1 - 1 Tss into each of the next 36 sts, end-st into last st, return, change to color A in the last return stitch.
• (A) Row 2 - { fp-Td, 1 Tss into each of the next 2 sts, fp-Td, 1 Tss into each of the next 5 sts } x 4, end-st into last ch, return, change to color B in the last return stitch.
• (B) Row 3 - { 1 Tss into next st, fp-Td, 1 Tss into each of the next 2 sts, fp-Td, 1 Tss into each of the next 4 sts } x 4, end-st into last ch, return, change to color A in the last return stitch.
• (A) Row 4 - { 1 Tss into each of the next 2 sts, fp-Td, 1 Tss into each of the next 2 sts, fp-Td, 1 Tss into each of the next 3 sts } x 4, end-st into last ch, return, change to color B in the last return stitch.
• (B) Row 5 - { 1 Tss into each of the next 3 sts, fp-Td, 1 Tss into each of the next 2 sts, fp-Td, 1 Tss into each of the next 2 sts } x 4, end-st into last ch, return, change to color A in the last return stitch.
• (A) Row 6 - { 1 Tss into each of the next 4 sts, fp-Td, 1 Tss into each of the next 2 sts, fp-Td, 1 Tss into next st } x 4, end-st into last ch, return, change to color B in the last return stitch.
• (B) Row 7 - { fp-Td, 1 Tss into each of the next 5 sts, fp-Td, 1 Tss into each of the next 2 sts } x 4, end-st into last ch, return, change to color A in the last return stitch.
• Continue to Row 32, advancing the stitch pattern and changing color at the end of each row.

If you want to use this as an all-over pattern for a blanket, simply add repetitions of the stitches between the { }. This stitch pattern is 9 stitches wide and any number of rows tall. Your starting chain for a larger piece should be a multiple of 9, plus 2.

Large Shadowbox

Large Shadowbox Pattern:

• (A) Base - using 5.50 mm standard hook and DK weight yarn (color A), ch 39. Switch to 6.00 mm Tunisian hook.
• (A) Foundation - lp on hook counts as first st (now and throughout), 1 Tss into each of the next 37 chs, end-st into last ch, return, change to color B in the last return stitch.
• (B) Row 1 - 1 Tss into each of the next 37 sts, end-st into last st, return, change to color A in the last return stitch.
• (A) Row 2 - { fp-Td, 1 Tss into each of the next 8 sts } x 4, fp-Td, end-st into last ch, return, change to color B in the last return stitch.
• (B) Row 3 - { 1 Tss into next st, fp-Td, 1 Tss into each of the next 6 sts, fp-Td } x 4, 1 Tss into next st, end-st into last st, return, change to color A in the last return stitch.
• (A) Row 4 - { fp-Td, 1 Tss into next st, fp-Td, 1 Tss into each of the next 4 sts, fp-Td, 1 Tss into next st } x 4, fp-Td, end-st into last ch, return, change to color B in the last return stitch.
• (B) Row 5 - { 1 Tss into next st, fp-Td, 1 Tss into next st, fp-Td, 1 Tss into each of the next 3 sts, fp-Td, 1 Tss into the next st } x 4, 1 Tss into next st, end-st into last st, return, change to color A in the last return stitch.
• (A) Row 6 - repeat Row 4.
• (B) Row 7 - repeat Row 3.
• (A) Row 8 - repeat Row 2.
• Rows 9 to 32 - repeat Rows 1 to 8.

If you want to use this as an all-over pattern for a blanket, simply add repetitions of the stitches between the { }. This stitch pattern is 9 stitches wide and 8 rows tall. Your starting chain for a larger piece should be a multiple of 9, plus 3.

I’m making a Tunisian Sampler Afghan, and each week of the Swatch-along will now also have patterns for 8.5″ x 8.5″ squares*. Each of these squares would also make a good all-over pattern for an entire afghan, and the stitch patterns that make them up can be incorporated into any design you choose - sweaters, skirts, purses, scarves, hats - let your imagination run wild. ( *when using DK weight yarn and a 6.00mm hook. )

Use the patterns for the squares as a starting point to create your own stitch patterns. You can: take sections of different squares and combine them to create new designs; take a single stitch pattern and reflect it or reverse it; add colorwork to a square shown as a solid; experiment with finer yarns and smaller hooks to create more intricate patterns…

The stitch patterns I am sharing didn’t just pop into my head and then spring forth from my fingers - Not At All! I did a lot of experimentation, all sorts of trial and error and nitpicking about stitch placement and centering (when applicable) and the tension created by the interplay of the stitches. I swatched, and ripped back, and swatched again.

And you know what - it’s a lot of fun because it becomes personal. I often feel like a crochet scientist in my own little lab, and maybe I’ve a touch of the Dr. Frankenstein but I become attached to the results of my process. As silly as it might sound to some, when you “get it right” you know it right away because it glows a little brighter and something a lot like EUREKA! echoes in your mind. It’s easy to get addicted to that feeling, and it’s totally worth pursuing.

This week I am going to share the patterns for 5 squares, 4 of which utilize Tunisian front-post doubles (featured in week 2 of the swatch-along) and the final square is created with T-push and T-pull techniques (featured in week 1). Each stich pattern will have its own post, so that you can easily bookmark the information you want. And you can always click on the “Afghan Squares” tag to access all of the posts (to date) with these patterns.

Checkerboard Checkerboard Pattern:
(remember: when counting rows - the very bottom row is the foundation, and the next row is Row 1)

• Base - using 5.50 mm standard hook and DK weight yarn, ch 38. Switch to 6.00 mm Tunisian hook.
• Foundation - lp on hook counts as first st (now and throughout), 1 Tss into each of the next 36 chs, end-st into last ch, return.
• Row 1 - 1 Tss into each of the next 36 sts, end-st into last st, return.
• Row 2 - * {fp-Td, 1 Tss into next st} x 4, fp-Td, 1 Tss into each of the next 9 sts *, repeat between * *, end-st into last st, return.
• Row 3 - * {1 Tss into next st, fp-Td} x 4, 1 Tss into each of the next 10 sts *, repeat between * *, end-st into last st, return.
• Rows 4 to 7 - repeat Rows 2 & 3.
• Row 8 - repeat Row 2.
• Row 9 - repeat Row 1.
• Row 10 - * 1 Tss into each of the next 9 sts, {fp-Td, 1 Tss into next st} x 4, fp-Td *, repeat between * *, end-st into last st, return.
• Row 11 - * 1 Tss into each of the next 10 sts, {fp-Td, 1 Tss into next st} x 4, 1 Tss into next st *, repeat between * *, end-st into last st, return.
• Rows 12 to 15 - repeat Rows 10 & 11.
• Row 16 - repeat Row 10.
• Rows 17 to 32 - repeat Rows 1 to 16.

If you want to use this as an all-over pattern for a blanket, simply add repetitions of the stitches between the * *. This stitch pattern is 18 stitches wide and 16 rows tall. Your starting chain for a larger piece should be a multiple of 18, plus 2 (1 each for the beginning stitch and the end stitch).

Don’t forget to upload pics of your swatches to the Art of Crochet Flickr Group.

Last week, I offered up a few different stitch patterns that combined Tss and Tps stitch to create delicious surface texture. This week we will continue to explore this aspect of Tunisian crochet.

What did everyone think of the stitch patterns from last week? Which one was your favorite (Ribbing, Honeycomb or Zig-zag)?

Check out these gorgeous examples from Swatch-along participants:

Gorgeous colorwork by thepriapisticpress	Perfect stitches bythe crochet side
Pretty stripes bydlad2002

Does anyone want to turn the Swatch-along into squares for an afghan sampler? That’s what I’m going to do - anyone else want in? I can include 2 sets of instructions for swatches from now on - a small version that is just to get a taste of the stitch, and a large version that creates a 10″ x 10″ square (that you can use later to assemble an afghan).Remember: if you want to make your swatches for the sampler afghan, make certain that all of the squares use yarn with the same gauge, so that the squares will fit together later.Last week, we experimented with subtle surface texture and we practiced the interplay of Tss and Tps stitches. This week, we’re going to experiment with more bold surface texture - those achieved with Tunisian Front Post stitches. (Video guides here: right-handed, left-handed.)

I’ve also added some colorwork to this week’s swatches, but you can use a single color if your choose.

Swatch #4
Bold Ribbing
(A) Base Chain - ch 21.
(A) Foundation Row - lp on hook counts as first st (now and throughout), Tss into each of the next 19 ch, end-Tss into last ch, return.
(A) Row 1 - Tss into each of the next 19 sts, end-Tss into last st, return (change to color B in last return stitch).
(B) Row 2 - (fp-Td into st 2 rows below, Tss into next st) x 9, fp-Td into st 2 rows below, end-Tss into last st, return (change to color A in last return stitch).
Rows 3 to 15 - repeat Rows 2 & 3.

Swatch #5
ULTRA Bold Ribbing
(A) Base Chain - ch 21.
(A) Foundation Row - lp on hook counts as first st (now and throughout), Tps into each of the next 19 ch, end-Tss into last ch, return.
(A) Row 1 - Tps into each of the next 19 sts, end-Tss into last st, return (change to color B in last return stitch).
(B) Row 2 - (fp-Td into st 2 rows below, Tps into next st) x 9, fp-Td into st 2 rows below, end-Tss into last st, return (change to color A in last return stitch).
Rows 3 to 15 - repeat Rows 1 & 2.

Swatch #6
Double Ribbed
(A) Base Chain - ch 21.
(A) Foundation Row - lp on hook counts as first st (now and throughout), Tss into each of the next 19 ch, end-Tss into last ch, return.
(A) Row 1 - Tss into each of the next 19 sts, end-Tss into last st, return (change to color B in last return stitch).
(B) Row 2 - (fp-Td into st 2 rows below, Tss into next st) x 9, fp-Td into st 2 rows below, end-Tss into last st, return (change to color A in last return stitch).
(A) Row 3 - (Tss into next st, fp-Td into st 2 rows below) x 9, Tss into next st, end-Tss into last st, return (change to color B in last return stitch).
Rows 4 to 15 - repeat Rows 2 & 3.

Swatch #7
Shadow Box - really needs 2 different color yarns to see the stitch pattern
(A) Base Chain - ch 21.
(A) Foundation Row - lp on hook counts as first st (now and throughout), Tss into each of the next 19 ch, end-Tss into last ch, return (change to color B in last return stitch).
(B) Row 1 - Tss into each of the next 19 sts, end-Tss into last st, return (change to color A in last return stitch).
(A) Row 2 - (fp-Td into st 2 rows below, 1 Tss into each of the next 5 sts) x 3, fp-Td into st 2 rows below, end-Tss into last st, return (change to color B in last return stitch).
(B) Row 3 - (Tss into next st, fp-Td into st 2 rows below, 1 Tss into each of the next 3 sts, fp-Td into st 2 rows below) x 3, Tss into next st, end-Tss into last st, return (change to color A in last return stitch).
(A) Row 4 - (fp-Td into st 2 rows below, Tss into next st) x 9, fp-Td into st 2 rows below, end-Tss into last st, return (change to color B in last return stitch).
(B) Row 5 - repeat Row 3.
(A) Row 6 - repeat Row 2.
Rows 7 to 12 - repeat Rows 1 to 6.
Rows 4 to 15 - repeat Rows 2 & 3.

Thank you, everyone, for joining along. And don’t worry if you missed last week - you can pick any of the swatches to stitch up and post… and I certainly hope you do!

A preview of the coming weeks:

Week 3 - Twisted Simple Stitch

Week 4 - Sequences and Series

Week 5 - Random Generations

Hey! Check it out! Someone has already posted her swatches for the Tunisian Swatch-Along in the Art of Crochet Flickr group.

Tunisian Honeycomb

Tunisian Ribbing

Isn’t that fabulous colorwork? Great job, Jess!

Now for a question to the participants: what other shapes would you like to explore? Cables? Monograms? Random generations? What ideas do you have?

And for the Math-heads… choose a few equations, or sequences, for us to explore in crochet. We’re going for surface texture, and not 3 dimensional shaping, so figuring out how to manipulate the formulas is half the fun!