Just in case y’all didn’t know — Art of Crochet has new Tunisian Video Stitch Guides.
Enjoy!
June 14, 2007
June 13, 2007
Tunisian Swatch-along
Who wants to join in a Tunisian swatch-a-long?
We’re going to experiment with texture, and we’re going to use (oh noes!) mathematics to do it.
Who’s with me?
I want to eventually do this through the Crochet Academy, but I have a lot of other AofC stuff on my plate and I kinda wanna do something without pressure and fun and with friends…
I’d like everyone to participate in coming up with stitch patterns and/or formulas to try out, but to get us started -
To play along, Crochet 3 Tunisian swatches (as follows) and post scans or pics to The Art of Crochet Flickr Group. Next Wednesday I’ll make a post linking to the swatches, and we can comment and come up with the next set of stitch patterns.
Swatch 1
Tunisian Ribbing
Base Chain – ch 25.
Foundation Row – lp on hook counts as first st, Tss into each of the next 23 ch, end-Tss into last ch, return.
Row 1 – (Tss into next st, Tps into next st) x 11, Tss into next st, end-Tss into last st, return.
Rows 2 to 20 – repeat Row 1.
Swatch 2
Tunisian “Waffle” Stitch, or Tunisian Honeycomb Stitch
Base Chain – ch 25.
Foundation Row – lp on hook counts as first st, Tss into each of the next 23 ch, end-Tss into last ch, return.
Row 1 – (Tss into next st, Tps into next st) x 11, Tss into next st, end-Tss into last st, return.
Row 2 – (Tps into next st, Tss into next st) x 11, Tps into next st, end-Tss into last st, return.
Rows 3 to 20 – repeat Rows 1 & 2.
Swatch 3
This next swatch uses a technique I developed to shift the vertical bars of the Tunisian Simple Stitch in order to create relief patterns on the surface (example here). This technique, and the many ways it can be used, create a wealth of stitch patterns – especially when combined with both Tunisian ribbing and Tunisian waffle.
The technique is accomplished by working either a T-push or a T-pull. (The links within the stitch definitions are to video stitch guides – 2 new ones added today.)
T-push: 1 ch-Tps (left-handed), 1 Tss2tog (left-handed)
T-pull: 1 Tss2tog (left-handed), 1 ch-Tps (left-handed)
Swatch Instructions:
This is an example of the T-push/T-pull technique as it combines with Tunisian ribbing:
Base Chain – ch 16.
Foundation Row – lp on hook counts as first st (now and throughout), Tss into each of the next 14 ch, end-Tss into last ch, return.
Row 1 – Tps into next 2 sts, (Tss into next st, Tps into next st, Tss into next st), Tps into each of the next 2 sts, repeat between (), Tps into each of the next 4 sts, end-Tss into last st, return.
Row 2 – Tps into each of the next 2 sts, T-push, T-push, Tps, T-push, T-push, Tps into each of the next 3 sts, end-Tss into last st, return.
Row 3 – Tps into each of the next 3 sts, T-push, T-push, Tps, T-push, T-push, Tps into each of the next 2 sts, end-Tss into last st, return.
Row 4 – Tps into each of the next 4 sts, T-push, T-push, Tps, T-push, T-push, Tps into next st, end-Tss into last st, return.
Row 5 – Tps into each of the next 4 sts, T-pull, T-pull, Tps, T-pull, T-pull, Tps into next st, end-Tss into last st, return.
Row 6 – Tps into each of the next 3 sts, T-pull, T-pull, Tps, T-pull, T-pull, Tps into each of the next 2 sts, end-Tss into last st, return.
Row 7 – Tps into each of the next 2 sts, T-pull, T-pull, Tps, T-pull, T-pull, Tps into each of the next 3 sts, end-Tss into last st, return.
Row 8 – Tps into next st, T-pull, T-pull, Tps, T-pull, T-pull, Tps into each of the next 4 sts, end-Tss into last st, return.
Row 9 – Tps into next st, T-push, T-push, Tps, T-push, T-push, Tps into each of the next 4 sts, end-Tss into last st, return.
Rows 10 to 17 – repeat Rows 2 to 9.
I am using the above technique for a new cardigan pattern. My workspace is in the process of being rearranged, but as soon as my scanner is accessible, I’ll upload a pic of what I’ve done with that technique.
March 14, 2007
February 28, 2007
Gauge, Drape & Substitution: Week One
You can view/download class materials and participate in discussion at the following link:
http://community.livejournal.com/art_of_crochet/679.html.
February 13, 2007
Crochet Academy: Gauge, Drape & Substitution
The Anna K will be the next pattern to be released on Art of Crochet.
I am tweaking the pattern a little bit in order to offer a version with more waist shaping, and which incorporates 3 colors instead of just 2. Of course, this means stitching another version, too (which is quite good as I will be able to get a few production shots as I go along, and maybe even some video of me sewing up the side seam).
It will probably take me about 2 weeks to get this pattern perfect and packaged. While that is going on, I’ll also be planning and starting the first seminar at the Crochet Academy. Here are the details for the first class:
If you wish to participate, please send me an e-mail (josi@iamintheloop.com) to sign up for the class. All materials will be available on the website, but participation in the live question-and-answer segment requires a reservation.
You can prepare for the first class of the seminar Gauge, Drape & Substitution by doing the following:
Materials:
approx. 50yds DK to Light Worsted weight yarn
3 standard crochet hooks — a 4.00 mm (US-G), a 5.00 mm (US-H) and a 6.00 mm (US-J)
rigid ruler, preferably clear plastic (not a measuring tape)
notebook
Select a DK to Light Worsted weight yarn. Anything you have in your stash will do, as long as you have at least 50 yards of it. Save the label, in order to compare your gauge with the listed gauge (or you can look this up on the internet later… most yarn companies offer that information on their websites).
For each hook size, crochet a square that is 25 sts x 25 rows. Measure, inside of the square, the length and width of 20 sts x 20 rows. Mark down this measurement in your notebook, making certain to mention the yarn and hook size. You can also label your swatch and save it for a swatchbook (this is a topic that will be covered in the seminar, along with why it’s best to use a clear plastic rigid ruler to measure gauge, and a discussion as to why some yarn labels just get it plain wrong when it comes to their hook size recommendations).
The day of the seminar, the website will have a few nifty tools that will help you analyze your numbers — and I’ll bet you’ll be surprised at all the information you will be able to gather about a yarn’s drape by swatching in a few different hooks sizes! It’ll be well worth your prep time, even if the assignment is simple I encourage even advanced stitchers to humor me, and participate by stitching up their swatches.
The question and answer portion of this event will take place on Yahoo! Messenger. It’s free and easy to use, so sign up today. Everyone who registers will get an e-mail the day before the class begins, with instructions on how to log into our virtual classroom.
I hope to meet you there!
Josi
January 31, 2007
A snippet from the new Beanie Pattern
It is not my hope to offer you patterns, and pattern generators, and video stitch guides merely for you to mimic what I’ve created.
No — my dreams are bigger than that. It is my wish to give you the tools you require to design for yourself . Art of Crochet has a Beanie Pattern Set up for sale. This is the first fully functional mix-and-match pattern set we are releasing. If you love what we are doing — please support our endeavors by purchasing your own copy today.
Here is a peek at what is inside:
Pattern Notes:
(1) The beginning rounds of the hat, which contain all of the increases, are worked in the back loop only without a turn.
(2) The increases are placed in different locations for each round — this creates a near perfect circle. When the increases are stacked up on each other, it creates corners and the result is a polygon with straight edges. In addition, the increases are much more noticeable when they are near each other, yet almost invisible when well interspersed.
 Polygon Increases placed in the same corner in each round. |
 Circle Increases interspersed differently each round. |
January 2, 2007
Welcome to Art of Crochet!
As a firm believer that form follows function, I also believe that technical perfection and artfulness are inseparable. One needs to know the rules before breaking them has any meaning, or deliberateness…
… and Design is a deliberate endeavor — it’s where color and shape and texture come together for a common purpose. Whether it is your home, your favorite sweater or your dream car: design is not separate from utility. In fact, design enhances utility… feng shui emphasizes symmetries in placement that are open to movement and airflow; your favorite sweater is likely warm, washable and in colors that ease you; and your dream car has curves that not only make you swoon, but also improve efficiency through aerodynamic engineering.
The results of your crochet will only be enhanced by employing good design. It is all the little details, accumulated, that create completed projects that seem perfect.
Here are 3 simple examples:
- Back loop only stitches not only create a wonderfully ribbed texture, but the resulting fabric has a delicious stretch. That same stretch, however, would make a poor choice if it were employed anywhere the structure had the pull of weight — near a shoulder seam, for instance. And an unlined satchel made of back loop only stitches couldn’t maintain its shape for very long.
- When combining colors, the lighter colors draw attention and the darker colors create shadows. Placement is everything! If you want to minimize your bustline, keep the lightest colors closer to your hips, or at your shoulders or elbows. Adding a detailing element across the fullest portion of the bust, on the other hand, is very enhancing and is a favorite trick for creating an illusion of fullness.
- Crochet isn’t only for lace or openwork. Experimenting with stitch placement and stitch combinations can yield many varieties of flexible fabric, with great drape, that also provide full coverage. The key, however, is to use a fine enough gauge yarn. Chances are, if you want the detail and hand of a knitted sweater made in DK weight yarn, you’ll need to go down to sportweight in crochet. Keeping in mind the chunkiness of the stitches doesn’t need to limit your choices as long as you choose to expand your repertoire.
